Vrindavan and 6 Jains from Bangalore

I am now Virndavan... this place is a mix between a rocky dirt flume through 5oo BC, and "South of the Border" - the gaudy tourist trap on the way to FL, right on the Mason Dixon (in that fantastic for irony purposes only kind of way). I think it is difficult being with Shanta and her sister (whose name I have shamefully forgotten) because they have their Hindu agenda and sometimes I would rather go off and dance about with the Hari Krsnas or wander down the Yamuna - suddenly I was at the Yamuna today!!!! - or justtell the dude asking for money in one the holiestof holy temples that he can take his stinking receipt, it makes me sick.

But I must say, this is the most beautiful city I have ever ever been in, and for the reasons that most probably want to stay away - the poverty here doesn't bother the way it did in, like, brooklyn for example - because it is not a lonely poverty - but then again, I can't make generalizations like that, it is just my impression and comfort, but the homeless are families... the wander about, do laundry, justlike everyone else, and ina way, it is nice to be withouthere, because have money makes you feel a few terrible things - if you want to, that is.

The Jains agreed with me about the poverty though, and so I will back now and segue into the train ride to Mathura...

I'd never been in a sleeper train before - there are these compartments with cots stacked and people just sit and chat and do their things - it is much more frinedly here of course... a few hours into the ride (we're talking 20 hr ride) a beautiful girl in her 20s came over and asked where I am from, what is my good name, and where I am going because she and her friends are playing a game and want to know. She came so close to me with this gorgeous wide eyed face, western personal space invasion... i answered her questions and smiled. A few hours later I decided to go check outher compartment and who is playing this game?

Immediately upon walking over, a group of young people invited me to sit. Your name is rinif? (or something like that?) We got to talking and singing and discussing philosophy - they were mostly interested in my views on love, arranged vs. love marriage, and happiness...

They were three married jain couples, all 24 and 25 from Bangalore. They were so fun and adorable and interested and we had a loud boisterous time. I don'tknow why I can never think of american music when put on the spot, but put on the spot I was and came out with some ridiculous tunes. They all wanted to hear "Barbie Girl" and the theme from Titanic. And the girl who came over originally, Hemu, sang such amazing Hindu songs, I almost cried. And she looked me right in the eyes as she sang, as she did the whole evening with such fascination. It was totally moving.

Of course I got enough invitations to confirm that I will go to Bangalore for Holi at the end of March. I asked Hemu's hubby, Tej, to tell me all about Jainism, but all I got was a long lecture about the earth not being round and not moving, and all this, which was all good, but try to find the implications, I was at a loss there.

I have the feeling that, as the young people here dress so much like in America that my desire to "fit in" and wear less revealing things has probably made me look to them like someone in America who puts on tapered sweatpants, a fluorescent windbreaker with shoulderpads, and an "I love NY" hat... But not caring also comes much easier here, and seems to be the great big overwhelming norm.

Well, I was definitely in shock a few days ago, butI feel much better now... much much. I am lookingforward to what comes, although I feel very confused about hinduism, but I am getting more in touch with the aesthetic and the sounds and just all of it....

please write,

I love you all.