Sikkim, Darjeeling, Varanasi, Delhi, Bombay, London, Home and Beyond...

Hey there,

Sorry, folks, for dropping you by the wayside there. After the trek there was a whirlwind of "getting home" that took place and I got swept up, shaken about, and dropped frazzled, dazed, jetlagged, slightly ill, and glowing back in the homeland of San Francisco, California. (notice the peppering of properly-used commas).

Let me catch you up, then. my goodness let's look...

"Just jump!" says Nuphar as I stand on a rock in the river that defines the border of Sikkim, facing a long stretch of running water to the next step. We are hopping across the border in search of red panda and whatever else might appear. And in that moment I am reminded of the postcard I was given from Pete the morning I decided to go back to Vrindavan. The postcard was of Radha and Krishna and on the back it said "Radha-rani, Jump." Signed, "Pitamba". This was the best advice I'd been given in a long time. I took it constantly since that day. And today I shut off my mind and say jump and... the rock is much closer than I'd thought. On the other side Nuphar meets me with open arms and says "This is FUN!"

Back up. On the morning of the trek, Nuphar and I take it easy and have a look at our Guest House's trek journal where people post valuable information and experiences. Most people went the normal way around the Singalila route, which involves probably a hundred kilometers (I'm a metric convert) along the Nepal border, culminating in Everest views, and then down along Sikkim - India's mountain state that borders China and Bhutan. The best comment is always about a place on the way back called Gorkhey where people wished they had planned a few days to stay and explore. So, being "chilled out", Noof and I decide to go backwards and just head to that spot, then turn around.

We jeep it up to a village called Rimbick and Noofy has the runs, so we decide to enjoy a nice dinner of deep fried tibetan bread, explore the Buddhist monastery across the street, and call it a night. We eat on the lawn of a nice guest house and hop around doing handstands and dancing, and chasing pigeons, and Noof shows me some Capoeira. At the monastery, we see pairs of scarlet-clad young men doing some strange business of clapping, chanting, and speaking with fervor at another monk seated in front. Nuphar says "I saw that on National Geographic channel". The english teacher finds us and explains that they are taking turns debating today's morning lecture... and that he saw us on the lawn of the Guest House doing capoeira... which he saw once on the National Geographic Channel. wow.... er, did he see us smooching?

The tibetan bread did the trick and the next day we are off to the next village where we get comfy and runsy again at a very very cute family GH, and hole up again and break out the new watercolor set.

The next day we set off early for Gorkhey, followed by the guest house's beautiful orange doggy (who we name "doggy"). Doggy follows us and encourages us the whole way, going up incredibly steep inclines - which are nothing for the now recovered Noof, but are extremely strenuous for the little wee finkle-lady. Luckily for me, Noof pushing me up the hills evens things out a bit. When we arrive at the surrounding villages of Gorkhey, however, all body aches are forgotten as the forest gives way to mist-covered fields of flowers and potatoes, a large running river with perfect dark round rocks, and the Sikkim jungle leading away into the distance. We have arrived in... The Shire.

Everyone recommended the Shanti Lodge, not the corporate-owned trekkers huts, and we get a genuine family welcome at this old local home of Nepalis, with no electricity, and generations all under a few small wooden roofs. Noof and I watch a misty sunset and tell eachother never to forget this moment. He reminds me not to forget the sounds - and when I let go into the music of the himalayan country, I feel the incredible peace of this place, and the love between he and I.

Doggy disappears the next day, and though I totally forget about him, I occasionally spot Nuphar off scampering about looking for him.

It is amazing to see how the family lives. Nuphar and I have the same comment - it's all about fire. We offer a group of Nepalis a new English-ized interpretation to their most popular song -- "Resampirili resampirili... you are a donkey, I am a monkey, resampirili"... and later we hear them outside the window singing our words with delight and laughter.

The next day, on our way back, Doggy jumps out of the grass and greets us with kisses and a big waggly tail. When we arrive at her home, her puppy, and her owners are sooo happy. They say it is very unusual for her to do that... How did we get so lucky?

When we get back to Rimbick (myself completely wiped out), we just miss the last jeep back to Darjeeling - and our train to Varanasi will leave the following day. There is no way that we can stay in Rimbick and I can make all my flights lined up for the next few days. Trains to Varanasi are booked for weeks. Our only option is a school bus of high-schoolers on a field trip leaving Rimbick that afternoon. We go to the teachers and plead and offer to ride in the aisle or on the roof. And finally, as they are leaving, they squish a few kids together and let us on (with two seats!). It is the loudest bus I've ever been on, as the boys and girls are having a singing competition of sorts - surprisingly this is filled with mostly American top 40 from the 80s 90s and Today.

I can barely believe my reaction upon reaching Varanasi.... VARANASI! I missed the place soooo much!!! I love the place soooo much! All the crazy "big balagaan" streets, all of our favorite indians, our favorite places, the river, the boats, the colors, the sun, the big big crazy city... all of it. Once you know it, it is -- completely irreplacably incredible.

My plane is delayed for 6 hours in the Varanasi airport, and I contemplate going back to surprise Noofy with just a few more kisses goodbye... the utter happiness of that thought is so much stronger than I expected. I'm smitten. On the trek my mind had gotten to asking all the questions about future and what now and what if and how can this ever work and what the heaven is love anyway and how can we be so sure and.... and I just turned to him and jammed it all into one frustrated question "Who are you?" and he smiled calmly and replied "A glimpse." And... oh yeah... right.

I miss my connection to Bombay so i'm put up in a 5-star hotel in Delhi for a fantastic 2 hours of sleep. I'd never been in a hotel room that huge before in my life, and I had certainly never been in a room with such clean sheets during my whole stay in the country. The following morning I arrive in Delhi with just enough time to hop a crazy ride to Shanta's suburban apartment and grab my computer and get a scolding for not staying longer. The next night is spent in the London airport where I do the budget traveller thing and sleep on the seats at the arrival gate. A nice Canadian spots my "just back from India" vibe and we keep each other company and watch each others' things. At 10:30am the next day, there is no guessing about whether I'll ever make it home... I'm on the plane to San Francisco.

All in all the travelling back is fine. I lose all grasp on time and sleep scheduling so the jetlag is less drastic, though still somewhat ridiculously bad and 6 days later I am still exhauted by 8:30pm - or maybe I'm just getting old.

Back in SF, I am realizing what a fantastic job Greg did of promoting our company. Neither of us will earn a cent until next fall, but we are working with several school districts who love us, and our name is out there as a reputable company. No one can believe we just started 4 months ago. Today I even taught a piano class! And it was such great fun! And I am teaching another one tomorrow. I love the idea that I can pretty much teach whatever I want. I am looking forward to when we begin working with high schools and I can start an art portfolio class... someday.

Now I just have to get a parttime summer job, move to Santa Cruz, build a fantastic social life, and import one very beautiful amazing Israeli.

And I guess that's all I have to say about my trip to India....

I don't know why I had to go on this trip, but I actually Really Had To. I can't explain it right now... I don't know what exactly I found. I don't know what exactly I have learned, what I have changed, what I have dealt with, but something... something very subtle... has lifted. I no longer feel so attached to "spirituality", though I do, but in a less urgent way. I no longer feel so in awe of the Rest of the World, though I have gained an immense respect for it, and a much more realistic idea of how truly small and far away America is (and underrepresented in the travel circle).

I no longer feel so "young" about things... but in a good way... maybe "bright eyed and bushy tailed" has given way to truly loving and respecting the incredible multi-sided THAT WHICH IS.

And so, onward.

And thank you for reading...

Himalayan Foothills (2)

Everyone should make plans right now to visit Darjeeling. This place is the most tolerable, friendly, clean, safe, and happy part of india I have seen yet! That is not to say it is the best, but it is certainly easier on the lungs, on the brain, on the patience, and on the nerves.

After the train ride, which was the compulsory 4 hours late, Nuphar, 2 british girls, and I took a jeep with a slew of crammed Indians. I didn't see a mountain in sight when we arrived, but suddenly we were going up up up... 3 hours later we were up 600 feet into the himalayas surrounded by twisty roads, sheer drops down soil steps filled with lush green tea leaves, with no speed limit except inspirational slogans encouraging one to slow down, enjoy life, etc. We were all a bit nauseous upon arrival, but feeling the first cool air (the first moments where we weren't completely sticky with pouring sweat), the first clean breaths, and the first sounds of naural forest life - that we'd had in weeks.

We were shocked to see such healthy glowing nepali and tibetan people, such european buildings, such healhy animals, clean beggar-free streets, and TASTY FOOD, not to mention great tea! We spent yesterday exploring the city, and found a gorgeous botanical garden without a single vendor, without even a donation box!

Through the trees and around every corner you are blessed with view of mountains, tea fields, colorful cities stacked on steep inclines, and, in the clear morning, the white tops of the most famous mountain peaks in the world.

Today we are going on a 3 to 5 day trek through villages and monastaries. I think it is the Sighalila trek or something like that...

And then I'm on my way home!

Darjeeling with Darling-ji

Quick note to say I am on my way to the beautiful himalayas for a trek in the tea fields... maybe with a view of everest... we'll hope.

And I really like this boy...

Pictures!!

I have been able to post pictures!

http://photos.yahoo.com/reneefinkelstein

Yesterday Nuphar and I had an idea to make pizza from scratch... and we did it! We did it with all Indian ingrediants, hunting them down, trying to communicate to buy them, not finding any italian spices in all of india... then going to our tabla teacher/friend 's house, who did not have an oven as it turns out, and figuring out how to use a chapati-maker, and making sauce while the non-english-speaking family is sticking hands in here and there to change everything... and viola! We made the best paneer-chapati pizza in the universe!

Today

I've decided I'm not coming home. Today I threw my passport in the ganga and put on Orange robes and shaved my head and renounced the world.

April Fools - I knew I'd get you on that one.

I have found a new guest House, the Suraj, which is so chill and nice. I have an amazing room with a bathroom for $2.50. Tomorrow, Nuphar and I and some others are going to make pizza and they are going to let us bake it in the house oven. I'm really enjoying Varanasi, the crazy energy, the heat, the yummy indian sweets (Gulab Jamon!!!), the amazing lighting of this place, the travellers, the Indians, the music, the theater... went over to the University the other day and got to watch a Classical Dance class, a vocal music class, and walked through the museum (which had no explanations for anything, and sometimes just hand-written titles) but some nice things.

Music lessons are getting intense - I am doing things with my voice that I never imagined I could do! Like, singing these Raags (which are so deliciously beautiful) sometimes notes just come out, and you just hop around a note, decorate it with your feeling for it... amazing, this music... amazing. And tabla is tricky, but starting to sound like a tabla, almost.

and this guy (Nuphar) is totally tripping my shit (as Ines would say)...

wow.

Boy!

Holi was gorgeous - image three purple men on a motorcycle zooming by saying "happy holi" over a huge puddle of fuscia... venturing out into the streets flanked by israelis and canadians, watching teenage boys with silver faces dump buckets of teal blue from the roof... as if india could get more colorful... leading the others into the hari ram temple and watching this pure atmosphere turn into a conga-line of rainbow-colored westerners (the swami cracks a smile).

Well, i have news... i like a boy!!! I didn"t know if it was possible, but it is! He is the cutest boy i've ever seen, 25, half israeli half dutch, and here to learn indian music! He is learning bansuri flute! And he plays it so sweetly, and he is really great, and things are very sweet, and now I am venturing into the new world of not analyzing. More news when non-analysis gives way to structured non-partial thought.

Happy Holi!

Tomorrow is the Holi Festival and already young boys are running around with pre-game excitement, waterballoons and jugs of paint, silver nylon pants, and hands and faces covered in purple, blue, green, red. I am told I should not go outside tomorrow before 2 pm when the crowd will all take to the ghats for a mass bath, washing their colors into the big holy sewer - mother ganga...

Tonight was a full moon, and the evening before holi is an evening of ceremonial fires - in the alleyways, piles of garbage are being offered up to the heavens.

Tonight I finally took Ravi up on his offer to show me real Indian Thali - full meal involving salad, sabjee (veggies), chapati, rice, daal, curd, pickles, etc. He asked me to join him a few days ago, but as I have had some kind of stomach bug (all my other complaints were just little aches, this was the first real deal) I was not able to take him up. Yesterday he took me to a doctor and paid for my 25 cent consultation, during which I given the prognosis of "Fine, but should eat more curd". The doctor was right!

So today I said I am coming over for sure. I arrived at seven at the music school, which is one of the rooms in his home where he lives with his mother, younger sister, and sometimes older brother who is now touring - he is a renowned tabla player. The Baba School of Music, which is just a room in the place, is part of a small castle-like complex that is comprised mostly of the Ganapati Guest House - a bit over my budget, but I will likely move in later this week for convenience sake. For a little while we jam - i play some bhajans on the harmonium, he on the tabla, then I join the rhythm on the djembe. He does some amazing western improvisation on the tabla with a djembe under his arm... hiphop beats with indian style. I find out that he is just improvising! very cool. So we go over to the guest house side that has a view overlooking the ganges and I ask about life in Varanasi and such things...

Ravi has lived here his whole life. Some background info - he is 22, brahmin, senior at Benaras Hindu University, tabla major. As a child he used to swim the ganga every day. He would get sick, but he tells me that if you put that water in a bottle, 1 year later it will not have spoiled. (this is actually scientific fact - the ganges has proven purifying qualities that are beyond science's comprehension).

I ask why he likes Varanasi, and he tells me a few of the fable, some of the kings who lived here, the musicians, how Hanuman's energy is here, etc. This building is overlooking Meer Ghat and he tells me that it is named after Mirabai - the princess who left her home and devoted her life to singing bhajans for Krishna. I have heard of her - she has goddess status, and I didn't realize she was a real person, but this very building is where she lived, legend says. She built it herself. All the castles overlooking the ghats belonged to kings, says Ravi. I say it is very auspicious to have a music school in the home of Mirabai!

Later we go back and his mother has prepared the most delicious indian meal I have had yet in india - by far... we put ghee in the daal and it tastes like butter. She makes indian excuses about having made it quickly and all that, and I just say "Mataji, bahut bahut badiyaaa! Danyavad!" (respected mother, very very excellent! Thank you!)

Am I "Fraternizin' with the locals"? Anyway, he is a very nice friend. And I have to run - potty emergency. more later.